Kiln · Olympic

Olympic replacement elements

Olympic's HE range spans a wide capacity from the small 1414HE up to the large 2531HE, and element count scales directly with chamber height and diameter, from two sections in the smallest model to eight in the largest.

Find your Olympic model

We hold element counts and supply voltages for 7 Olympic models. Pick yours and we will confirm the spec back to you before asking for anything.

Olympic element specifications

Typical ranges across the Olympic lines we see most. Always confirm against your own rating plate.

Voltage 240V, some 240V/208V
Element wire Kanthal A1
Configuration 3-8 element sections depending on chamber size
Typical life Several years of regular firing before elements sag, thin, or open; heavy cone 6+ use shortens this

Where to find the data tag on a Olympic

On Olympic kilns the data/serial plate is normally fixed to the outside of the control box or switch panel, near the power cord entry. That plate carries the model number and amperage draw you need before we wind a replacement element, so read it off the kiln itself rather than an old invoice, since the box on the shelf may not match what is actually bolted in.

Model series we supply

  • 1823HE
  • 2327HE
  • 2827HE
  • 1414HE
  • 1818HE
  • 2531HE
  • FL-14E

What is specific about Olympic

Olympic's HE range spans a wide capacity from the small 1414HE up to the large 2531HE, and element count scales directly with chamber height and diameter, from two sections in the smallest model to eight in the largest. Because these are front-loading and top-loading designs sold across a long production run, the same model number can have carried more than one element gauge over the years, so we always wind to the serial number and measured coil dimensions rather than assuming a fixed spec off the model name. All our replacements are wound in-house from Kanthal A1 to the original resistance value within ±2%, and we hold no dead stock, so turnaround is 48 hours standard. Confirm whether your unit is wired 240V or 208V before ordering, since Olympic offered both on several models and the two are not interchangeable.

How Olympic elements typically fail

  • Element sagging out of the groove after repeated firings, especially in lower sections that see the most heat soak
  • Localised thinning or a visible open break, usually where a coil crosses a brick groove corner
  • Corroded or loose pigtail connections at the terminal block causing intermittent power to one section
  • One section reading open on a multimeter while the others test normal, often the first sign a kiln is underfiring or taking longer to reach temperature

Confirm before you order

Test the element before replacing it. A meaningful share of "dead element" calls turn out to be a thermostat, sequencer or limit switch, and the test takes ten minutes with a multimeter. Our resistance test tool tells you what your reading means.

What to send us for a Olympic quote

  • Model and serial from the rating plate
  • Voltage and wattage, if legible
  • A photo of the old element, especially the terminal end
  • What the equipment is doing — or failing to do

If the plate has faded past reading, our model number guide covers the other places manufacturers record it.

Olympic element questions

How do I know which Olympic element I need?

Start with the model number and serial off the control box data plate, not the box the kiln came in. Olympic has revised element gauge and resistance on some models across production runs, so the serial tells us which spec was actually fitted. If the old element is still in place we can also work from its measured coil diameter and turn count.

Can you rewind an odd or older Olympic model not listed in your standard range?

Yes. If you can send us the brick groove dimensions, the element gauge, and the target resistance or amperage from the data plate, we can wind a replacement to match even if the model has been discontinued. This is common with older Olympic kilns that have been in a studio for a decade or more.

Is my kiln 240V or 208V, and does it matter for the element?

It matters a great deal. A 240V and a 208V element for the same physical kiln are wound to different resistance values to deliver the correct wattage at each supply voltage, and fitting the wrong one will underfire or overload the circuit. Check the voltage on the data plate or your electrical panel before ordering, since several Olympic models were offered in both.

Get a quote

Get a Olympic element quote

Send the model and serial, or a photo of the rating plate. We confirm the exact fit in writing before anything ships.

Send us a photo

Any one of these gets us started. All three and we can usually quote same day.

A clear shot of the rating plate is usually all we need — you do not have to know the part number.

Only if you have it in front of you. Most people don't, and the photo covers it.

ohms

Optional, but it is the one number we cannot work out any other way — it verifies everything else. Not sure how?

Sets the replacement cycle — elements are measured in firings, not months.

We reply within one business day. No obligation, no account needed.

Call (647) 718-1514