Water Heater · State
State replacement elements
State is an A.O.
State element specifications
Typical ranges across the State lines we see most. Always confirm against your own rating plate.
Where to find the data tag on a State
The rating plate is on the lower front jacket panel, above the element access cover. As with other A.O. Smith brands, cross-check against the wattage stamped on the element head itself.
Model series we supply
- Select
- Premier
- ProLine
What is specific about State
State is an A.O. Smith brand, sharing its manufacturing platform with GSW and John Wood, so elements cross freely between the three when wattage, voltage and mount align. The Select and Premier ranges cover most standard residential installs, while ProLine sits at the upper end of the residential and light-commercial line, but electrically all of them use the same screw-in 1" NPT element format at 240V. Because State tanks are found in both retail and trade-supplied installs across Ontario, the wattage fitted at the factory can vary even within what looks like the same model line, so always confirm the number on the failed element before ordering. State's badge tells you very little about the element itself; the wattage, voltage and thread size are what matter.
Also sold as State Water Heaters, State Select
These brands share manufacturing platforms with State, and elements frequently cross over between them when wattage, voltage and mount match. We verify against your specific model rather than assuming — sharing varies by generation and product line.
How State elements typically fail
- No hot water at all, usually the upper element or high-limit thermostat has failed
- Hot water runs out quickly, usually the lower element has failed or is buried in sediment
- Breaker trips on reset, usually a shorted element
- Rumbling noise from the tank, usually sediment insulating the lower element
Confirm before you order
Test the element before replacing it. A meaningful share of "dead element" calls turn out to be a thermostat, sequencer or limit switch, and the test takes ten minutes with a multimeter. Our resistance test tool tells you what your reading means.
What to send us for a State quote
- Model and serial from the rating plate
- Voltage and wattage, if legible
- A photo of the old element, especially the terminal end
- What the equipment is doing — or failing to do
If the plate has faded past reading, our model number guide covers the other places manufacturers record it.
State element questions
Is a State element the same as an A.O. Smith element?
Functionally yes when the wattage, voltage and mount match, since State is part of the A.O. Smith family and shares its tank platforms. The tank badge is largely a retail and warranty distinction rather than a sign of a different element design. What we wind to is the electrical specification, which is the same regardless of which A.O. Smith family badge is on the jacket.
How do I know if it's the upper or lower element that has failed on my State tank?
The simplest diagnostic is how the fault presents. No hot water at all, right from the first draw, points to the upper element, since it heats the top of the tank first. Hot water that starts fine but runs out much faster than it used to points to the lower element, which is responsible for reheating the tank as water is used.
Why does State recommend matching wattage exactly when replacing an element?
Because the circuit, breaker and wiring supplying the tank were all sized around the original element's wattage. Fitting a higher-wattage element draws more current than that circuit was designed to carry safely, which is a genuine fire risk regardless of brand. Matching the exact wattage and voltage stamped on the original element is the only way to keep the installation within its designed safety margin.
Get a quote
Get a State element quote
Send the model and serial, or a photo of the rating plate. We confirm the exact fit in writing before anything ships.