Find the right element for your kiln

Almost certainly. This table covers the models we are asked about most, not the limit of what we wind. We make elements for nearly any electric kiln, including discontinued and imported models. Send the brand, model and serial from the data plate, or photograph the old element against a tape measure, and we will work out the spec.

Because the same kiln model is sold in both, and they need differently wound elements. A 208V element fitted to a 240V supply will run hot and fail early; a 240V element on 208V will never reach temperature properly. Your supply voltage is on the kiln data plate — check it before ordering rather than assuming.

A full set, in almost every case. The remaining elements have the same firing hours and the same oxidation, so a second failure soon after is common. More importantly, a new low-resistance element beside aged high-resistance ones puts out more heat and fires unevenly — which shows up as warped or under-fired work.

The count in this table reflects the standard configuration for that model, but manufacturers do revise specs across production runs. That is why we ask for the serial number as well as the model. Count the elements in your kiln before ordering — if it disagrees with the table, yours is right and we will wind to it.

Not on its own, no. Element count and supply voltage narrow it down, but winding needs resistance, wire gauge and coil length, and none of those are derivable from a model name alone. That is exactly why we ask for the serial and a photo of the data plate rather than quoting straight from a table.